The first time we visited Hawaii was in June, 1986. We were returning from ten months in India via Hong Kong and South Korea. When we exited the aircraft in Honolulu, our daughter, Jennifer kissed the ground; after ten months away she was delighted to be back in the USA.
We spent three days in Oahu, staying in Honolulu. Honolulu has a lovely setting, backed by tropical mountains and the Diamond Head cliff, and its multi-ethnic population and bustling tourist and commercial life were interesting. Outside of Honolulu, Oahu is rural and beautiful, with green, jagged hills and mountains, and beautiful beaches on the eastern and northern coasts.
Next, we went to Maui where we stayed in Kihei at a condominium for five days. We went crazy in the supermarket, purchasing foods we had not eaten in nearly a year, such as steak, Idaho potatoes, pancakes, maple syrup and the like. Aside from eating, we enjoyed visiting the gorgeous beaches of the southeastern coast, particularly Wailea and Makena, which were still pristine but soon to become loaded with massive hotels. From the coast one can see neighboring islands, such as Molokai, Lanai and Kaha’olawe. We enjoyed driving along the coastal road to the northern and eastern sides of the island, which have more verdant vegetation due to heavier rainfall. Sue and I got up early one morning to drive to the summit of Haleakala volcano at 10,023 feet. The views of the golden and maroon colored deep caldera and the coastal plains far below were striking.
On our current trip, we are visiting the islands of Hawaii and Kauai. Hawaii island has the most diverse habitats, including the sun drenched, lava strewn western coastline, lush rainforests and jungle on the eastern coast, high cliffs and green valleys on the northern coast, two huge volcanoes, and the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Kauai is said to be one of the most gorgeous islands in the world, with long, magnificent beaches, the Waimea Canyon, jagged, forested mountains, and the scenic northern Na Pali coast. We should enjoy the balmy weather, especially since we are missing two of the coldest weeks on the east coast in many years. I also look forward to spending time with my sister, Pat, and brother-in-law, Jeff, and of course with Sue.
2/5 It was a long day of traveling—a five and a half hour flight from JFK to LA and a nearly six hour flight from LA to Hawaii. Fortunately, I was immersed in Michener’s novel, Hawaii, so the time passed quickly. In our rental car we left the airport at 10 PM and had trouble finding the Konaloa Resort since it is off the main road. There was some tension among us with disagreement about the correct route, and we finally had to phone the resort to get directions. We were delighted with our spacious, three bedroom condo. I did not sleep well because I kept waiting for dawn to arrive so I could look around the resort.
2/6 Dawn finally arrived and I was delighted with what I found. Our condo unit is bordered by a golf course, and from our spacious porch (lanai) is a view of the sea behind manicured lawns and palm trees. I walked along the lava formations at the edge of the ocean and marveled at the water spouts; waves swept water under the lava, causing high plumes of spray. I strolled along a volcanic path by the sea to a nearby narrow cove, popular with surfers. The resort is beautifully located and quite isolated, away from the sprawl of Kona town. In the morning Pat and I shopped for food at the nearby shopping center, and then I relaxed at the pool located at the water’s edge.
In the afternoon, Pat, Jeff and I decided to go snorkeling. However, we couldn’t find the car key that I was certain I had left on the table in the hall. I felt like a fool, as I searched everyplace for the key—in the car, under the car, on the sidewalk, in all my pants, in my suitcase. We were resigned to phoning the rental car company at the airport to ask for another key when Pat discovered this precious thing in her pocketbook, trying to recall how it got there.
We snorkeled at nearby Kahalua beach. The beach is unattractive and along the busy road, but the snorkeling was good with a variety of brightly colored fish. Unfortunately, my new snorkel seems to leak and I kept having to surface to remove the water. I spent an hour during the late afternoon searching for a shop to purchase a new snorkel. We ate dinner is a perfect location—at the resort’s restaurant at a table next to the sea. However, the expensive food was awful and we will not eat there again.
2/7 We explored the northwestern coast today; the weather was clear and mild. North of Kona, we drove for miles along the arid, lava strewn coast with the blue sea always in view. We spent a half hour at Hapuna Beach, a quarter mile stretch of tawny sand bordered by small volcanic bluffs. Jeff felt the beach was too hot and sat in the shade on the hill above; I rode the waves for a while; Sue and Pat sat on the beach and chatted. Next, we stopped at Lapakahi historical park and walked the one mile trail through the remains of an old Hawaiian fishing village. The sea was so clear that we could see large yellow fish swimming in the current.
We drove along the north side of the island through quaint, traditional villages to the road’s end at Pololu Valley overlook. We were greeted by an amazing view to the east of high cliffs dropping precipitously to the sea, a rocky island, and a black sand beach. We hiked down to the beach through verdant foliage, with gorgeous views of the wild seacoast and then strolled along the secluded beach. The lush Pololu valley stretched back to the south for miles, bisected by a wide stream. Thousands of Hawaiians used to live in this valley, cultivating crops and fishing for food. The hike back up was tough for Sue but she made it. We took a different route home through the Kohala mountains, seeing tens of thousands of cattle grazing on the grassy, rolling hills. The Parker ranch in this area is huge, encompassing 10% of the land of Hawaii Island.
We bought good Thai food at a restaurant and ate it on our lanai. Toward the end of the day clouds rolled in and tonight it is raining. I’m afraid tomorrow’s forecast of partly sunny weather may be incorrect, which could affect our visit to the volcano national park.
It looks like Jeff will be our primary driver and I will be the navigator. Jeff says he would enjoy doing all the driving, which is fine with me because I can then crane my neck this way and that, gazing at the wonderful scenery.
2/8 Hooray! This morning’s weather was sunny. The ninety-six mile drive to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park was attractive, with views initially of the lush coastal highland, with its coffee and macadamia nut farms and flowering bushes, and then of the ridge line of the Mauna Loa volcano until clouds obscured it. Upon arrival at the park entrance, situated at the 4,000’ Kilauea Volcano, we immediately drove along the eleven mile Crater Rim Drive. We were impressed by the immense size of the Kilauea caldera, with its black and gray volcanic bottom and its lava flows and smoking plumes. We stopped eagerly at every overlook and took short hikes to scenic vistas at several of them. We admired the steam plumes and multi-colored rocks at Sulphur Banks; the wide views of the huge caldera at Jaggar Museum; the deep, small Halemaumau Crater inside the Kilauea Caldera and the surrounding lava flows to which we hiked; and the dense tropical forest leading to the Thurston Lava tube through which we walked. The scenery made us feel like we were back in prehistoric times; indeed the Planet of the Apes was filmed at the caldera.
Next, we drive down the twenty mile Chain of Craters Road, enjoying the views of small craters and the massive lava flows descending four thousand feet to the coast. At the sea we had hoped to hike to a current lava flow. However, the flow was nearly three miles from the trail head across a rugged lava field. We were content to hike to a point where with the naked eye, and even better with our binoculars, we could see the molten orange lava spilling into the sea, producing high plumes of smoke.
Toward evening we ascended the same road, with the thickening clouds spitting rain, and checked into to our hotel, the Volcano House, situated at the edge of the crater. The hotel is rustic, filled with pictures and mementos from its long history, and costs far more than it is worth. However, it has location, location! We had a very good dinner there.
2/9 I awakened at 4 AM and was pleased to see a starry sky. Indeed, at dawn it was partly cloudy and the viewing was good. So I got up and took a mile hike along the Crater Rim Trail, once again impressed by the huge, smoldering caldera. The entire ridge of the 13,679’ Mauna Loa volcano was clear and I could see the sharp rise of the 13,796 Mauna Kea volcano in the distance.
After a filling buffet breakfast, we hiked the beautiful, fascinating four mile Kilauea Iki trail. The trail passes through a lovely jungle full of ferns, vines, and flowering plants, and birds, some of them red and orange, were singing merrily. Then, the trail descends through the jungle into the Kilauea Iki crater. The crater’s floor is a vast, black lava field, looking like a macadam road that has been fractured into pieces by an earthquake, with higher lava mounds and smoking plumes. The crater is surrounded by lofty cliffs, some barren and others covered by forest. We walked across the crater, marveling at the wild scenery, and then up through the forest on switchbacks and along the jungled Crater Rim Trail back to the car. While we were in the middle of the crater, Gary called us on our cell phone. It was so strange to be talking to him in this remote place.
Next, we drove to the small village of Volcano where we gassed up and ate lunch at a café. We drove thirty miles to Hilo, the capital of this island. It is the rainiest city in the USA, with 258 days of rain per year, and sure enough, as we entered the city it began to pour. So much for our planned walking tour of the historic center city! Hilo has endured two major tsunamis since 1946, causing tens of millions of dollars in damage and nearly two hundred deaths.
We drove in the rain through a scenic four mile area of lush tropical foliage and then to Akaka State park. We hiked there in rain showers along a 6/10 mile loop trail through a tropical paradise to a 420’ waterfall crashing down a canyon. We then continued along the coastal road to its end at Waipoo Overlook, with beautiful views into a verdant valley, backed by cliffs along the sea. I had hoped to return to this valley to hike, but we didn’t have enough time. The showery weather continued until we crossed the spine of the island to the western side, at which point the skies abruptly cleared. The eastern side of the island receives far more rain than the western side, especially near the coast. That is why we chose to stay in Kona. Returning to our condo was like coming “home.” We look forward to two less frenetic and more relaxing days before we head off to Kauai.
2/10 In the morning we walked to the nearby Keauhou harbor to book a snorkeling trip for me and a whale watching excursion for Sue. The harbor is a pleasant place with fishing docks, volleyball courts, picnic tables, kayaks, and tour boats moored in the sea. Sue and I strolled over to the Sheraton hotel to look at its pretty gardens along the shore.
In the afternoon I took a three hour cruise in a fast, rubber craft to Kealakekua Bay, one of the best snorkeling locations in the islands. It is backed by a black cliff, with land jutting out to the sea marked by a memorial to Captain Cook who was killed here by the Hawaiians. I snorkeled for more than an hour in the clear water, loving the views of the beautiful coral reef and abundant schools of colorful fish. Many of the fish were brilliantly yellow, others translucent green and blue, and some were black, either with a bright orange spot or lined in blue. On the way back we hugged the coast to view caves amidst the lava rock. Sue was all smiles when she returned from her journey. She observed more than forty whales and ten breeches, with the whales jumping high out of the water. Thanks to her “Seabands” she didn’t even get seasick. Pat made a delicious chicken stew that we ate on our lanai, enjoying our view of palm trees, the sea and the setting sun. I am going to miss this lovely location.
2/11 We had a relaxing, satisfying final day on Hawaii island. In the morning we drove twenty miles south to Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historic Park. The drive is so pretty, passing lush coffee and macadamia nut farms, with bright flowering trees lining the roads, and constant views of the coast lying 1500’ below.
The historical park contains the royal grounds and a walled off place of refuge. Traditional Hawaiian society was stratified between a ruling class, the alii, and the common folk. The society was regulated by a strict set of laws, the kapu, and violators of these laws were punished severely, often by death. The commoners were forbidden to look at the alii, stand in their shadow or trespass on their compound, and hunting and agriculture occurred at proscribed periods. Violators were believed to anger the Gods who would inflict catastrophes like tsunamis, hurricanes, earthquakes or volcanic eruptions on the people. To placate the Gods, criminals were killed. However, if a kapu violator could manage to get to a pu’uhomoa, or place of refuge, he or she would be protected; after receiving absolution from the priests, the person could return to society without fear of punishment. The society also had rigid gender distinctions. Female commoners were subservient to males and were forbidden to eat certain delectable foods such as bananas, red fish and pork. However, among the ruling class a number of women did become powerful queens.
After strolling through the park and viewing the historical structures, we walked along the volcanic rock shoreline and observed fish and large turtles in the tidal pools. Pat, Jeff and Sue lingered there while I went snorkeling for a half hour at Two Step, adjacent to the national park. The coral was pretty but the fish were not as plentiful or varied as they were yesterday at Kealakekua Bay. We also visited Ho’okena beach, situated beneath coastal cliffs.
Pat was hungry, but we couldn’t find a decent restaurant on a Sunday when many places are closed. We finally bought French bread and cold cuts at the supermarket and ate them on our porch, enjoying the lovely view. In the afternoon I sat at the pool on the seaside, reading my book, taking dips in the pool and Jacuzzi, and watching the waves crashing on the volcanic shore. Pat and Sue ventured into Kona town, which they found tacky and uninteresting.
I am going to miss the Konaloa resort, so tastefully designed, as well as the island of Hawaii, with its topographical variety and volcanoes. The only drawback to this island is its lack of long, pretty beaches. However, everyone raves about Kauai, the garden isle, and its beaches are supposed to be numerous and beautiful. I am looking forward to exploring this supposed paradise.
2/12 The flights today were very interesting. On the first flight to Maui we were able to see the two Big Island volcanoes clearly, as well as the small beaches along the east coast. We flew along the south side of Maui, observing the verdant mountains to the east, the lofty Haleakala volcano, the long sandy beaches of the Kihei coast, and the jagged hills of the western side. On the flight from Maui to Kauai, we could see the soaring mountains and long, sandy coast of Molokai, the lush island of Lanai, and then the Bali Hai-like mountains and cliffs of Kauai.
When we reached the Kiahuna Plantation resort in Poipu beach, I was delighted with the gorgeous gardens and landscaping but not with the location of our condo unit. The lanai of our condo unit looks across a small public beach parking lot to the sea. Also, our building is located near the Sheraton hotel and across the garden from the resort’s restaurant, which makes it noisy in the early evening. The area on the east side of the hotel, pictured on line, and seemingly run by the Castle management company, has more space and fewer parking lot views. Oh—I am sooo spoiled; I want a perfect setting for my accommodations. But then we are paying a lot of money for the unit and we should not have to view a parking lot. The condo is fairly commodious and will be comfortable, but is not as nice as our residence in Hawaii.
I am pleased with the local beaches, though. Poipu beach curves along three coves for about a half-mile, the sand is golden and soft, and the sea is turquoise blue and wavy but not too rough. I walked contentedly along the beach, spotted a good place for snorkeling, and rode the waves for a while. I was apprehensive about eating at the resort restaurant, given our bad experience at the Konaloa, but the meal was scrumptious. The weather forecast promises nice weather the next two days so we will begin our exploration tomorrow.
2/13 I was surprised to see a mostly cloudy sky when I awakened. Bad forecasting! We decided to go to Waimea Canyon anyway and I’m glad we did. The skies initially were partly cloudy and the views were unusually clear. The canyon is spectacular, dropping as much as 2,800’ to the winding Waimea river, with multiple side canyons of various hues. Several waterfalls cascade down the cliffs, the highest being over 400 feet. We stopped at every overlook, each of them displaying dramatic scenery. Unfortunately, when we reached the summit at 4200’ the weather rapidly deteriorated and light rain began. Instead of hiking the canyon rim trail as planned, we hurried down the mountain road in drizzle and fog and discovered that it had even rained on the coast.
We took a peek at Hanapepe, a traditional town that was heavily damaged by hurricane Iliki, but the girls were too hungry for lunch for us to linger there. We ate our sandwiches at the attractive Salt Pond Beach, although I can’t believe it is one of the ten best beaches as one booklet claims. After picking up a cooked island chicken for dinner and taking it back to our condo, we drove to a spectacular beach that has to be among the top five. Maha’ulepu beach curves a long distance around two coves and is backed by dramatic, craggy mountains, looking like the Kauai I had anticipated. We gazed reverently at the beach from rocky cliffs to its west, with the blue sea frothing below, whales spouting on the horizon, and fishermen casting their long rods from the bluffs. Wow! We will return there to explore this beach thoroughly.
2/14 Lewisburg had its first snowstorm of the year and about ten inches fell. I am not envious because we had a marvelous day. We explored the north coast, which has magnificent scenery. First we visited Kilauea Point and Lighthouse. From the point we could see whales spouting and breeching, thousands of white birds nesting and flying, and beautiful views to the west of the Na Pali coast. The last ten miles of the road are simply gorgeous; we passed one lovely beach after another, each with tawny sand and sculpted mountains above. The road ends at Hapa’ena State Park. Its long, lovely Ke’e beach runs directly into the Na Pali cliffs, which rise as much as 4,000 feet above the coast. The mountains here are eroding faster than anyplace on earth, resulting in dramatic pinnacles and spires, and the abundant rainfall has caused a lush jungle to grow.
We hiked the first two miles of the famous Kalalau trail. The trail is rugged and steep in places, and crosses six deep valleys along its eleven mile length. The trail provided remarkable views of the mountain spires, cliffs, and turquoise sea. As we reached each viewpoint we exclaimed in delight at the spectacular vistas. Sue, Pat and Jeff stopped at a lovely viewpoint to eat lunch and said they were too tired to continue. I hiked another half hour down to a rocky beach lying under a steep cliff. Signs were posted there warning that eighty-two people had drowned in the dangerous surf and that a tsunami would be deadly to those below a safety sign. I then hurried back along the trail and caught up to Sue.
When we completed the hike, I walked for a while along the beautiful Ke’e beach and it began to sprinkle, a welcome relief. On the way back, I asked to be let off at Lumaha’i Beach where South Pacific was filmed. The beach is attractive, its golden sands extending for a mile with peeks of the mountains above. I had no time to swim because Sue and Jeff are not fond of beaches and Pat is ambivalent; it would have been selfish of me to leave them sitting in the car late in the afternoon while I swam. On the way back we detoured onto a two mile long, scenic rural road running along the Hanalei river and past lush fields of taro, backed by rugged, contoured peaks. The north shore of Kauai is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. I want to return to walk and swim at every beach and gaze at the mountains.
2/16 On this sunny day we decided to relax and spend time on the nearby beaches. In the morning, Pat, Jeff and I walked along Poipu beach to the last cove where we snorkeled. The fish were pretty but not as numerous or diverse as I would have liked.
In the afternoon, Pat went horseback riding for two hours. Sue, Jeff and I drove to Maha’ulepu beach. Sue and I walked for a mile and a half along this magnificent beach. The initial section is straight and sandy, backed by dense, leafy low trees and sand dunes. As we turned the corner, the beach formed a perfect U shape with carved mountains in the background. We then climbed up to a ledge and walked along it, observing waves spurting spray up the sides of the volcanic rock twisted into various shapes. At a high pinnacle we looked across a curving bay, with its rocky shore, crashing waves and a high cliff-like mountain dropping into the blue sea. We could see whales in the ocean, some flapping their flippers and others jumping out of the water. This beach must be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, and it’s only a fifteen-minute drive from our condo.
While Sue and I took this marvelous walk, Jeff sat under a tree on the side of the beach. Later I asked him why he had not joined us; he said he didn’t want to be in the sun since a cousin had died of melanoma cancer. Jeff would rather be home working on his motorcycles and plowing the snow off his driveway. He travels only because Pat wants to, and then only once a year. I’m glad that Jeff is being a good sport about this vacation because Pat deserves to enjoy traveling with her husband at least two weeks a year; the other fifty weeks Jeff gets to stay home and do his thing.
Sue and I and Pat and Jeff have different rhythms to our life, especially toward evening. Pat and Jeff have pre-dinner cocktails and they sometimes drink beer or wine at dinner. Normally Sue and I do not drink. If I have more than one drink I tend to get muddle headed and tired. This evening, Pat and Jeff sat on the porch and had their cocktails; Sue stood at the kitchen counter and did a puzzle; I was on the computer, checking the weather, news and sports, looking at my Hawaii pictures, and writing my journal. The computer is an integral part of my life; in fact I am rather obsessed with it. During a recent ski trip to Vermont, I was unable to get on line for an entire evening and felt deprived. In contrast, Pat and Jeff have not gone on the computer at all. Jeff and I also have very different styles of dress: I wear a T-shirt and shorts whenever I can; Jeff likes to wear a long sleeve, blue work shirt and blue jeans. Despite some differences in life styles, the four of us have been flexible and cooperative and are enjoying one another’s company.
2/16 Today was less interesting than we had hoped. We went kayaking on the Wailua River. At the beginning we could see mountains to the west and I hoped to view them throughout the trip. However, soon the forested shores of the river obscured the mountains and the scenery became monotonous. Sue could not paddle because of her back so I had to paddle for both of us, which became tiring. After an hour of paddling we all looked at each other and simultaneously decided that we should turn back. The return paddle was difficult because we were fighting the tide and a head wind, and I was very relieved when we finally reached the dock.
Next, we visited a replica of a Hawaiian village set up along the river. We learned more about the traditional culture. The men did the cooking, but males and females ate separately. Four months were set aside every fall for cooperative, pleasurable activities. During that time, warfare was prohibited, little work was done, feasts were held, and games were played. The Hawaiians worshipped four Gods, each representing natural phenomena.
After the village we visited two waterfalls but were again disappointed. The falls were pretty enough, but could only be viewed from overlooks on the road and hiking down to them was prohibited. On the way home, we shopped at “Hilo Hattie’s”, a clothing store, to buy presents for family. Back at our resort, I snorkeled and rode the waves for a while. Then, Sue and I stood on the beach, watched the cultural performance at a luau at the Sheraton hotel, and gazed at a spectacular sunset. Tomorrow is supposed to be showery so I am not sure what we will do.
2/17 The weather today proved the wisdom of staying on the south shore in this rainy season. Rain clouds shrouded the northern and eastern parts of the island, but Poipu beach was partly cloudy and the western side of the island had clear skies.
This morning Pat, Jeff and I went to Maha’ulepu beach. Pat and Jeff took the same walk Sue and I did two days ago and loved the scenery. I walked along the entire beach, went snorkeling (but the fish were scarce), and rode the waves. The waves were breaking perfectly to give me exciting rides. In the afternoon we drove to Polihale beach at the west end of the island. The last five miles we had to ride on a bumpy, rutted road, but the jolts were worth it. The beach is the longest on the island, extending for miles, the sea is wild, and on the northern part rise high, indented, maroon cliffs, the beginning of the Na Pali coast. Sue and I walked to the end of the beach, enjoying the vistas of the cliffs and frothy waves.
We have only two more days here. I am hoping to return to Waimea Canyon tomorrow to take a hike. On our last day, I will explore the beaches of the northern coast by myself. I want to hit every major beach on the island; each one has a different character and beauty.
2/18 Despite the forecast for mostly sunny skies, we awakened to cloudy skies with wind-blown showers. One of my forecast services predicted the showers would give way to clearing skies in the afternoon. Due to the rain, Pat, Jeff and Sue felt it would be better for me to explore the beaches on the north coast today rather than tomorrow so off I went.
Fortunately, the skies became partly cloudy and I had an adventurous day. I drove all the way to the end of the road at the Na Pali cliffs and walked along Ke’e beach. I love the view of the Na Pali cliffs from this beach. I snorkeled on the left side of the beach and was rewarded with a pretty reef and schools of colorful fish. Next, I visited Ha’ena beach, a few miles to the east, and walked for a good half mile. The vistas of the craggy mountains and spires from here are magnificent. I tried snorkeling there too but the fish were scarce. Then, I drove another few miles east to Tunnels Beach. This beach stretches for miles and also has amazing views of the craggy mountains. I counted fifteen spires on the range to the southwest. I briefly looked at Luma’hai beach and decided that despite its fame as a movie set, it lacks the scenic beauty of the previous beaches, partly because tall trees block the view of the peaks. I drove further to Hanelei beach, which curves gracefully for two miles around a cove with a pretty mountain backdrop.
The northern beaches are all marvelous, just some more so than others. The only other beaches that can begin to match them are Maha’ulepu on the south shore and Piohale to the west. I stopped at the east coast beaches of Kelia, Donkey, Wailua and Lydgate, but they didn’t interest me much aesthetically. In fact, I like the east coast the least; most of the beaches lack a close mountain backdrop and some of them are too close to the road; also there is urban sprawl along the congested strip from Lihue to Wailua. Poipu beach, fronting our resort, is always listed as one of the top ten beaches in Kauai. I suppose that is accurate but I wouldn’t rank it in the top seven. It ranks highly for gentle surf, a variety of activities from body surfing, boogie boarding, surfing to snorkeling, and good weather. However, there are no mountain views and it is hardly pristine since it is lined by three hotels and our huge condo resort.
On the way back I drove along Kipu and Hulemalu roads into the wild, back country of the southeast and enjoyed the rural fields, a big fishpond and the mountains. Raiders of the Lost Ark was filmed in this area. With my exploration today I feel fully satisfied that I have seen all the main sites of this lovely island and am content to depart tomorrow.
Something has bothered me in Hawaii. On a superficial level, the native Hawaiian culture is glorified: at the luaus traditional dances like the hula are done; native words are regularly used such as Aloha (hello) and Mahalo (thank you); native instruments make music; some state or county parks depict traditional culture. However, the sad fact is that the native Hawaiians seem like outsiders in a society dominated by white, Japanese and Chinese immigrants. When the Europeans and Americans “discovered” Hawaii, their diseases ravaged the natives and many died. The Calvinist missionaries came in the early nineteenth century and taught the Hawiians to disrespect their traditional culture, language and society; a core of white families, many descended from missionaries, formed an aristocracy and dominated political and economic life into the 1950s. The offspring of Chinese and Japanese laborers became educated, cracked open the white dominance and became important members of the commercial and political elite. The United States established imperial control over Hawaii to benefit from its agricultural products and geo-strategic location. Somehow, many of the native Hawaiians seem left out—relatively less educated, less wealthy, and less healthy. Most of the menial jobs seem to be done by native Hawaiians. Partly it is their fault for not taking advantage of current opportunities; partly it is a legacy of white racism and discrimination and a patronizing attitude toward the natives.
2/19 On this last day, and a sunny one, I have concentrated on the beaches. I took a walk on Poipu beach alone and then with Sue and Pat. I wanted to show them three monk seals that were resting on the beach. I snorkeled and saw large schools of fish and also body surfed.
After lunch, Pat, Sue and I visited the beautiful Hyatt hotel, a few minutes away. Then, they left to visit the Kauai museum, and I lingered at the Hyatt. Its gardens are gorgeous and it has beautiful Koi ponds, waterfalls, and the longest, twisting, river-like swimming pool that I have ever seen. There also is an artificial lagoon at the edge of the sea for swimming and boating. The resort is on Shipwreck beach, the most scenic of the nearby south shore beaches. It is long and sandy, framed by bluffs on both sides, and has high waves so there were many surfers. I climbed the bluff to the west and was rewarded with fine views of the coast to the east and west. I walked to the east along the bluff and its sand dunes, which are about 100 feet above the sea, and could not stop staring at the crashing waves and sculpted mountains in the direction of Maha’ulepu beach. The next time we are here, I will hike from Shipwreck beach all the way to Maha’ulepu beach and enjoy the dramatic scenery. Between the beautiful gardens, large pools, famous golf course, and access to this wonderful coastal area, I think the Koff family should stay at the Hyatt. We can bring Cassie; she would love the activities. We ended our trip with a delicious dinner at the restaurant we liked so much in the shopping center. I had a huge prime rib and it was delicioussss. Our return home seemed quick and was uneventful.
TRIP SUMMARY
Our journey met my high expectations in most ways. We lucked out with the weather;liked our condo in Hawaii so much; savored the beautiful scenery of both islands; ate some excellent dinners, and enjoyed being together. The highlights for me were: in Hawaii, the two days at the Kilauea volcano, especially the hike; the hike at the Pololu lookout; the snorkeling expedition to Kealakekua bay, and in Kauai: the vistas of Waimea Canyon, the walks along the coast at Maha’ulepu beach; the two journeys along the north coast, including the Kalalau trail, and Ke’e, Tunnels and Ha’ena beaches. My least favorite day was when we kayaked and visited the waterfalls. I wish the view from our lanai at the Kiahuna resort had not included a parking lot, but I loved the gardens there, eating dinner at the restaurant, and walking along Poipu beach. I want to return to Kauai, but before I do, I need to visit the Society Islands (Bora Bora and Moorea) so that I can compare them to Kauai. In fact, I like Kauai so much that I would consider living there, not now, but maybe in the future.
It feels so strange to return home to wintry weather. We have seven inches of snow in town. I have skied three days in a row, and we now await a forecasted snow and ice storm.
No comments:
Post a Comment